By Trendsetter Tribune 
Milan menswear fashion week proceeds without Giorgio Armani for the first time, showcasing elder designers Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren, blending archive inspirations with contemporary fashion.
This January marks the first Milan Menswear Fashion Week without Giorgio Armani, who passed away in September aged 91. While the brand will still present its collection on Monday, the spotlight is on other elder statesmen of the fashion world, including Ralph Lauren, 86, and Paul Smith, who turns 80 this year.
The event reflects both continuity and change, honoring the legacy of long-standing designers while introducing new perspectives and collaborations.
Paul Smith: A Playful Homage to Fashion History
Paul Smith showcased his menswear collection on Saturday evening at the brand’s Italian headquarters. The show’s playful, personal tone was underscored by Smith himself acting as compère, describing each design and its inspiration over a microphone.
Fans of Smith recognized his signature elements: bold prints, oversized suiting, and bright sweaters and shirts. Smith explained the format was inspired by salon-style shows he attended in the 1970s at the ateliers of Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.
Collaborating with new design director Sam Cotton, Smith revisited the brand’s extensive archive, bringing forgotten pieces back to life. Highlights included a jacket first seen in 1999 and a rust-colored grandad shirt, “dyed on a gas cooker in a saucepan,” Smith recalled with humor.
Despite working with a younger generation, Smith emphasized he remains fully in charge: “I get there at six every morning, I’m still completely involved. Nothing’s changed.”
Business Realities: Navigating a Post-Pandemic Market
Like many luxury brands, Paul Smith has felt the impact of a post-pandemic slowdown, with turnover falling 7% in 2024. Smith warned that results for the current year may be weak, but maintained a positive outlook: “We’re here and we’re working it out, and we’re going to be fine.”
Ralph Lauren: Celebrating a Legacy of Preppy Success
Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren continues to thrive. A show on Friday evening combined the Polo line with the upscale Purple label, celebrating nearly six decades of preppy-inspired American style.
Although Lauren did not attend, his son David was present, alongside celebrities including Tom Hiddleston, Colman Domingo, and Noah Schnapp, in a palazzo purchased by Lauren in 1999. The collection offered clothing for every aspect of the affluent lifestyle: weekend fleeces and rugby shirts, office and evening suits, and ski wear complete with puffers and boots.
The brand’s strong performance is reflected in a reported 11% sales increase in the first quarter of 2025 and the popular “Ralph Lauren Christmas” trend online. Ralph Lauren will return to Milan in February to outfit Team USA for the Winter Olympics, underlining its continuing influence in both fashion and sports.
Conclusion: Tradition Meets Contemporary Vision
Milan Menswear Fashion Week 2026 demonstrates how elder designers continue to shape the industry, blending archival inspiration with modern collaboration. As the fashion world moves forward without Armani, the enduring presence of Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren highlights the power of legacy, creativity, and personal vision in luxury menswear.